Gerry Lopez is a diminutive guy. I was lucky enough to meet him at a book signing hosted by the publishers, Patagonia Books.
Diminutive in stature, his life, judging from the stories in this book, is everything but.
Renowned for his relaxed style, Lopez is the master of understatement in the face of ferocious power. The collection of anecdotes and philosophical musings provides an extensive sample of the past five decades in surfing. This book trips through the eras, from his beginnings in Hawaii in the early 1960’s right through to the present day, spanning every development and trend there has been.
From Big Wednesday to Conan the Barbarian, this dude has literally done it all. Surf is Where You Find It is a great surfing book to read, rather than the usual glossy picture book full of perfect curling barrels to simply drool over.
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